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Regular sump pump maintenance can prevent basement floods
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Chicago Tribune (MCT) - Think of your home's foundation as a cracked concrete cup half-sunk in a mud puddle. Water wants to seep in from the surrounding soil, and the only thing that keeps it at bay in most homes is a sump pump hidden in a pit in the basement floor. It's easy to forget and neglect that pump, but you really, really don't want it to fail, especially after a soil-soaking heavy rain or a spring thaw.
Highlights
McClatchy Newspapers (www.mctdirect.com)
3/30/2009 (1 decade ago)
Published in Home & Food
Depending on how much it runs _ which is a function of the home's location, the weather, the soil conditions and other factors _ a sump pump may wear out in one year or 20 years, according to Kurt Wolf, Chicago-area operations manager for Roto-Rooter Inc., based in Addison, Ill., (rotorooter.com). But a few simple precautions, taken every few months and whenever a heavy rain is predicted, can detect a problem so you can repair or replace the pump before a crisis.
1. Check the outlet. The pump should be plugged into a ground fault interrupter (or GFI) outlet, which will cut off electricity to the pump in case of an electrical problem. Check the button on the outlet to make sure it hasn't been tripped. If it has, it may indicate a problem with your sump pump, Wolf says, such as a jam that makes the motor labor or a motor that has failed altogether.
2. Check the pump switch. The pump is in a pit about 2˝ to 3 feet deep. When ground water rises in the pit, it triggers a switch that turns the pump on to send the water away. To test the switch, pour a couple of 5-gallon buckets of water into the pit and see if the pump turns on.
3. Maintain the check valve. Water is sent away through a discharge pipe. In the pipe is a check valve to make sure the water flows only one way. That valve should be replaced every two years or so, Wolf says, because it takes a beating. Regularly check the connections around the check valve to make sure they are tight; vibrations from the pump can loosen them and make them leak.
4. Clear out the pit. Remove any sticks or other debris from the bottom of the pit (Wolf uses a kitchen strainer with a handle as a scoop). If you are handy, occasionally unplug the pump, disconnect the check valve and lift the pump from the pit. Remove any debris and rinse the pump with water to make sure it's clear. Reinstall it, making sure the connections around the valve are tight. Plug it back in. If you are not handy, call a plumber to do the job.
5. Get a backup. A secondary sump pump, powered by a dry-cell battery, can be placed in the pit so it switches on if water rises above the primary pump's switch.
But don't let the backup make you complacent. Check its readout often to see if it is being triggered, which indicates a failure of the main pump. Because the battery backup is nowhere near as powerful as the main pump, you should get the main pump fixed or replaced right away, Wolf says. A backup with a dead battery is no backup at all, so also check the battery regularly, as you do your smoke detectors, and replace it every three to four years.
Another good investment: a battery-operated flood alarm, about $15, placed on the floor of the basement, that sounds off if it detects dampness.
___
© 2009, Chicago Tribune.
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