You can taste Memphis' 'Super Bowl of Swine' anytime

Chicago Tribune (MCT) - Each May more than 100,000 people flock to the banks of the mighty Mississippi River for Memphis' World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. Known as the "Super Bowl of Swine," the prestigious contest bestows top honors on the world's best barbecuers; yet sadly, local health regulations prevent contestants from dishing out the meat to spectators. It's a case of barbecue, barbecue, everywhere, and not a bite to eat. But fret not.

Thankfully Memphis overflows with places to buy some of the world's best barbecue. And given the range of seasonings you'll find on the city's meat, from salty dry rubs to supersweet sauces, there's something for everyone _ at least those who crave slow-cooked ribs and chopped pork shoulder.

Because I grew up here, I'll avoid arguing why Memphis barbecue is better than that found in North Carolina or Texas (even if it's true) and instead focus inward, offering a list of the city's top spots and why the locals love 'em. For each location, I've included the positives ("The Meat") and what falls short ("The Rub") when compared with its counterparts.

To avoid threats on my life, I have arranged the listings in alphabetical order.

_A&R Bar-B-Que

The Meat: A sign inside A&R proclaims that "Anyone can put the heat 2 the meat, but only a few can b-b-q." True enough, and thankfully A&R is one such place.

But while their pork shoulder is better than average, the items that actually put this place over the top are their sides. Try their hotlink sausage, a fried peach pie, fried pickles or some strawberry cake.

The Rub: A&R is in one of Memphis' worst neighborhoods, and after-dark trips are probably best avoided.

_The Bar-B-Q Shop

The Meat: Several places make barbecue spaghetti, but none masters it like they do at the Bar-BQ Shop. Their version consists of thick noodles, chopped chunks of pork and a rich, maple-flavored sauce. It's a sure-to-stain-your-shirt marriage of carbohydrates and protein. Wear a bib. Also, check out their tasty brisket, a rarity in these parts.

The Rub: Tables are crowded with too many sauces; and beware, one of the sauces sets the tongue afire. You'll know it when you find it.

_Central BBQ

The Meat: With an owner who hails from California and a history that dates only to 2002, Central BBQ shouldn't be amazing _ but it is.

In just over six years, Central has rocketed into the stratosphere of Memphis barbecue, winning cookoff contests and beating decades- old favorites. They do it by using premium ingredients, from their meat to their paprika. In our visits, we tasted nothing short of the best.

From ribs, both dry and wet, to their barbecue nachos _ get 'em half chicken, half pork _ Central should not be missed.

The Rub: Given their newness, both locations exude as much charm as an Applebee's.

_Charley Vergos' Rendezvous

The Meat: People either love or hate the Rendezvous' dry-rub ribs, but there is no debating that this restaurant reigns as the city's most popular rib joint. Vergos, whose adult children now run the place, came up with the unique blend of spices that coat the meat, and the family's Greek heritage explains its complex flavors.

The Rub: The wait can stretch more than an hour, so if you don't want dry ribs, go elsewhere.

_Corky's

The Meat: Solid barbecue sandwiches and ribs.

The Rub: Say "Memphis barbecue" outside the city limits and many will mention Corky's, which is understandable: The chain has locations in eight states, and Corky's pioneered the overnight barbecue business thanks to FedEx, another Memphis success story. Honestly, it's a reality that makes me wince. That is, Corky's isn't awful _ it's decent _ but it's hardly the best the city has to offer, as their flavors fall flat and service can be spotty.

_Cozy Corner

The Meat: This downtown staple sits in a dilapidated strip mall, but don't worry too much about crime _ police are some of Cozy Corner's most frequent patrons, and a squad car always seems to be pulling in or out.

Here Cornish game hens _ a k a small, young chickens _ rule the menu roost as the establishment's most popular item. The hot rib tips and barbecue sandwich, dressed with a super-sweet coleslaw, should not be ignored either.

The Rub: All side items, such as the corn on the cob, the baked beans and barbecue spaghetti, are forgettable.

_Germantown Commissary

The Meat: Situated next to a set of train tracks in an affluent Memphis suburb, the Commissary once was a general store, and the restaurant still looks old-timey _ tin advertisements and yellowed photographs hang on its wooded walls.

Such a throwback, yet sanitized, setting makes the Commissary one of the most family-friendly locations on this list, and the food here does not disappoint. The ribs are meaty, the sauces complex and the coleslaw creamy.

The Rub: Rude, lackadaisical service and its suburban location make it tough to recommend the Commissary as a "must visit" to tourists not staying nearby.

_Interstate Bar-B-Que and Neely's Bar-B-Que

The Meat: Interstate is owned by Jim Neely, one of the longtime titans of Memphis barbecue. Neely's is owned by his cousins, who have recently found fame on the Food Network.

Is there a difference between the shops?

They are waiting for you. Will you answer?

Depends on who you ask, but both certainly offer some of the best barbecue in town. The wet ribs at Interstate and Neely's are nearly perfect, offering moist meat under a perfectly caramelized exterior. (I say "nearly" only because they're small compared with those at Central.) No matter which place you hit, try the homemade "Sock It to Me Cake." The sugary Southern pastry is the best dessert at any Memphis barbecue spot.

The Rub: Pat and Gina Neely's national exposure has transformed their restaurant into a tourist stop, and some locals swear the quality has slipped. The older Interstate gets our nod too, but it's a close call: Interstate's fried bologna sandwich puts them over the top.

_Payne's

The Meat: Payne's is perhaps one of the least-popular places on this list _ not because of its food quality but because relatively few have tasted it. The restaurant is hard to spot, located in an old gas station with little signage, and hours are irregular. On our third visit _ the first two times they were inexplicably closed _ a friend asked whether Payne's provided catering. The friendly owner scratched his head and replied, "I can make you a big plate." That's Payne's.

Still, try to hit it, because if you do, you'll find one of the juiciest, nicely balanced barbecue sandwiches in town.

The Rub: Tough to track down.

_Tops Bar-BQ

The Meat: Tops, with 14 area locations, is the closest thing to a barbecue fast-food chain in the city.

They've been at it for 57 years, and their $4.75 BBQ Plate _ with quarter- pound chopped pork shoulder, baked beans, coleslaw and toasted bun _ is about as cheap as Memphis barbecue comes.

The Rub: While Tops has great history, the present reality is that some of the shops serve great food, some don't. McDonald's learned a long time ago that the secret to success is consistency. Until Tops learns the same, it should be skipped.

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IF YOU GO:

Several of Memphis' top barbecue spots have more than one location, so we've listed either the original joint or the most popular. (Others can be found online.)

Some places take reservations _ others will hardly take your order. Either way, great barbecue awaits.

A&R Bar-B-Que, aandrbbq.com, 1802 Elvis Presley Blvd., 901-774-7444

The Bar-B-Q Shop, dancingpigs.com, 1782 Madison Ave., 901-272-1277

Central BBQ, cbqmemphis.com, 2249 Central Ave., 901-272-9377

Charley Vergos' Rendezvous, hogsfly.com, 52 S. 2nd St., 901-523-2746

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Corky's corkysmemphis.com, 5259 Poplar Ave., 901-685-9744

Cozy Corner Restaurant, cozycornerbbq.com, 745 N. Parkway, 901-527-9158

Germantown Commissary, commissarybbq.com, 2290 Germantown Rd., Germantown, Tenn., 901-754-5540

Interstate Bar-B-Que, interstatebarbecue.com, 265 S. 3rd St., 901-775-2304

Neely's Bar-B-Que, neelysbbq.com, 670 Jefferson Ave., 901-521-9798

Payne's, 1762 Lamar Ave., 901-272-1523

Tops Bar-B-Q, topsbarbq.com, 4183 Summer Ave., 901-324-4325

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Jason George: jageorge@tribune.com

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© 2009, Chicago Tribune.