Eat like a local when you go

Chicago Tribune (MCT) - You can drop a lot of dough eating in Napa and Sonoma Counties, home to some of the nation's best restaurants.

But you can save a dime or two, plus eat very well, if you use some cunning and patronize the same places locals go to. Here are some restaurants to try on your wine holiday _ or is it a holiday from wine?

--Taylor's Automatic Refresher

Napa Valley is home to a galaxy of fine restaurants but, for me, the one place that must be visited no matter what is Taylor's Automatic Refresher.

More than a great place for a burger, Taylor's has become a Napa institution, a cultural touchstone that draws winery millionaires, high school slackers and scads of tourists together to chow down on picnic tables in the backyard or at the canopy-covered counters outside. This being Napa Valley, expect wine to be served, along with such atypical drive-in fare as ahi tuna burgers and Chinese chicken salad. I find bliss in the basic cheeseburger (albeit made with "humanely raised" Niman Ranch beef), an order of onion rings and a vanilla shake.

Taylor's has opened outposts at the Oxbow Public Market in downtown Napa and the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, but the real deal is still this one in St. Helena. 933 Main St., St. Helena. 707-963-3486. Open daily, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

--The Red Grape

It's surprising enough to find genuine New Haven-style pizza being dished out in downtown Sonoma, but imagine the shock when I discovered beach scenes of my old hometown hanging on the wall. Owner Sam Morand phy spent a brief time in Madison, Conn., where he became an avid fan of the ethereal thin-crusted pizzas that are New Haven's glory. When he moved back to Sonoma, he opened shop. Take a break, and experience the joy. 529 1st St. West, Sonoma. 707-9964103. Open daily, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

--Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen

Just a block off the well-beaten tourist track that's California Highway 29, this is "a local joint," in the words of chef-owner Cindy Pawlcyn. Darn straight, although the savvy visitor can be found enjoying the rustic but knowing fare. Prices are realistic, even for Napa Valley. The prix-fixe "Supper Club" dinner every Wednesday is just $45. Her killer cocktails are must-do's, especially the "Honest Manhattan" made with Knob Creek Bourbon, sweet dry vermouths, but there is a very good wine list for those who insist.

1327 Railroad Ave., St. Helena. 707-9631200. Open daily, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m., to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

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--Thai Taste Restaurant

Just across the street from The Flamingo Conference Resort and Spa in Santa Rosa, this tiny Thai joint offers up cheap but delicious plays on all the faves. Try the pumpkin red curry with beef. The dining room is bare-bones; sit outside on the small patio where you can watch the sun set behind the Sonoma resort's signature pink neon flamingo sign. 170 Farmer Lane No. 8, Santa Rosa. 707-526-3888. Open Monday- Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 4:30-9 p.m.; Saturdays, 4:30-9 p.m. Closed Sundays.

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TURKEY A LA BURBANK

Luther Burbank a crusty, old epicure? Who knew?

Well, a visit to the home and gardens of the world-famous botanist in Santa Rosa,Calif., will set you straight.

This recipe for turkey _ Burbank insisted it was "the best ever" _ could be the most useful and savory souvenir of your trip. Published in the 1922 edition of "The Stag Cook Book: A Man's Cook Book for Men," the recipe is eccentrically worded and gives a clear glimpse of Burbank's nononsense style. Fannie Farmer he ain't, but the recipe is doable today. A covered roaster or wok can sub as a steamer; use a food processor in place of the meat grinder. The biggest challenge might just be finding a 10-pound turkey in this supersize age.

"For an ordinary 10-pound turkey steam 2 1/ 2 hours or until the muscles of the leg can be readily pierced with a dining fork.

Take steamer from the fire and carefully remove the turkey to the roasting pan.

"Meanwhile, prepare the dressing as follows: One loaf of bread, ordinary baker's size, or same amount of other bread, slice and toast slowly but thoroughly to a light golden color; while hot, spread butter on each slice just as a hungry boy would like it. Place in a deep dish. The cooked giblets, which with the juice of one lemon and three whole large onions should be ground all together in a meat grinder with:

1 teaspoon salt

˝ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon powdered sage

2 teaspoons summer savory

2 tablespoons sugar

"These should be well sifted and then added to the ground vegetables and giblets, and the meat juice saved from steaming, thoroughly mixed with the bread and all cut and mashed to about the consistency of thick mush. After filling, the turkey should be placed in an oven not too hot, and slowly roasted for an hour or more.

"Prepared as above, little or no basting will be necessary, but a few thin slices of bacon laid over the fowl will add flavor. Add no oysters, eggs, chestnuts or other abominations."

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