A glimpse at the real Mexico on a side trip to Merida

The Dallas Morning News (MCT) - The first full day into our vacation, the cruise director announced that, because of a hurricane threat, we wouldn't go to Cozumel or Veracruz as planned on the original itinerary. Instead, we'd dock at Progreso, Mexico, a former beach hideaway for locals that now bustles with tourists.

Fortunately, my companion and I had packed three Mexico travel books. When we docked in Progreso, we weren't stuck in Progreso or limited to taking the cruise line's expensive shore excursions. We had quickly researched the area and decided to skip the beach and go 40 minutes inland to Merida.

This growing city with a population of more than 1 million people has late-16th-century stone churches, quiet neighborhoods and some of the most authentic Mayan wares in the Yucatan.

Done on our own, a round-trip taxi ride from Progreso to Merida cost $65.

In Merida, my companion and I walked the narrow streets, visited several art galleries and strolled through markets. We met locals who pointed us toward shops that sold traditional Mayan hammocks. My companion bought two hammocks woven by hand from agave, the same plant used to create tequila.

Acting on a local's tip, we walked across town at noon to Los Almendros. The restaurant near a plaza serves what may be the city's most authentic Yucatecan food. We ate poc chuc, a thin piece of grilled pork topped with pickled onions and fiery salsa, and downed bottles of Montejo beer.

We headed back to the ship after nearly six hours of exploring Merida. We counted our receipts on the ride back, and found we'd spent $105 on transportation and meals. In comparison, a Carnival Cruise Lines excursion to Merida, which included fewer hours in town than we had but featured a guided tour on Segway scooters, cost $69 per person ($138 a couple).

When we lined up to reboard the ship, some passengers who had stayed in Progreso were wearing sombreros, shaking maracas and swaying back and forth after drinking all day in the sun.

We knew we'd made a good choice.

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© 2008, The Dallas Morning News.