These members of the mollusk family are ideal to have in your freezer because they defrost and cook quickly and they adapt well to all cooking methods. Another bonus: Two to three of the larger sea scallops (about 2 inches in diameter) are generally plenty for one serving.

Buy fresh, dry-packed sea scallops if you can; these are not treated or soaked in a solution. If they were not previously frozen, you can freeze them. Fresh scallops should smell sweet, not fishy.

The scallops should be creamy light beige or off-white. If they're stark white, chances are they were treated with sodium tripolyphosphate, which is added to increase their weight and extend their shelf life. The preservative makes them absorb moisture and, during cooking, that absorbed water releases and almost steams the scallops, sometimes preventing a really good sear. Another sign that scallops have been treated: If you cook them in oil, the released water will make the oil splatter.

If you buy frozen scallops, check the label. It should say whether they've been treated.

The best way to cook scallops is to sear them in hot oil in a skillet for 2-4 minutes on each side, depending on the size. Cooked this way, scallops will be sweet and fork tender. But be careful not to overcook them, or they will be tough and chewy.

This recipe pairs pan-seared scallops with a slightly tangy ruby red grapefruit juice-based sauce. If the sauce is too tangy for your taste, balance it out with a small amount of brown sugar.

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SEARED SCALLOPS WITH SHALLOTS & GRAPEFRUIT SAUCE

Serves: 4 / Preparation time: 10 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

½ cup finely diced shallots (2 to 3 large)

½ cup 100 percent ruby red grapefruit juice

¼ cup white wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ¾ pounds large sea scallops

¼ teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning

2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon, optional

In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots, saute, stirring constantly until the shallots are golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the grapefruit juice and vinegar. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste; set aside.

Pat the scallops dry with paper towels and season lightly with salt, pepper and Old Bay Seasoning.

In a 12-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, add the scallops (don't crowd them in the pan) and cover with a splatter screen if you have one, and cook until they are golden brown on both sides and almost firm to the touch, 2 to 4 minutes per side.

Add the shallot sauce to the scallops and cook until the sauce is just heated through.

Serve immediately, sprinkled with the chives and, if using, the tarragon.

Adapted from Fine Cooking magazine, January 2008 issue.

Tested by Susan Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

343 calories (45 percent from fat ), 17 grams fat (2 grams sat. fat ), 11 grams carbohydrates, 34 grams protein, 364 mg sodium, 65 mg cholesterol, 60 mg calcium, 0 grams fiber .

TODAY & TOMORROW

Scallop salad: Cut leftover scallops into bite-size pieces. Mix with salad greens and steamed asparagus cut into bite-size pieces. In a jar, place 1/3 cup ruby red grapefruit juice, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper to taste and a pinch of sugar. Put on lid and shake to combine. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad.

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© 2009, Detroit Free Press.